Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Chilled First Night in Boracay



Boracay Island is without a doubt one of my most favourite places that I've been to: a beautifully lush island with white powdery sand, warm, clear blue and rock free ocean water and a chilled and party-island ambience.

We first visited here as part of our Asia trip in 2008 and knew we had to come back. And so here we are on our first night at this paradise island on Wed. Nov. 24 - the 4th leg of our Philippines trip - where we will stay until Sunday Nov. 28.

Our agenda? If it's anything like our first night tonight - on which we strolled along the lit beach, ate, watched TV and updated my blog - a whole lot of chilling and nothingness.

But I did make sure to grab a picture of the beautiful sunset on the island this time around. It was one thing I didn't get to do last time.

The one distinct difference I've noticed right away is that in just two years the island has become much more commercialized. A few new resorts have opened up and a major fast food chain has opened shop.

One of the things I loved about Boracay during our first visit was its remote state and the fact that it wasn't so crowded and commercialized. I hope the island does not lose this spirit.

But nonetheless, Andrew and I look forward to enjoying the next few days on this heaven on Earth.

Pink sunset in Bohol



As we ended our nature tour of Bohol on Tuesday, Nov. 23, our driver sped through town, as if racing against the sunset to get us back to the resort - making a short stop at a church (see pictures above/below). This guy was a mad ass driver, swerving around cars, pedestrians, cows, chickens, and dogs like a skilled race car driver. If we were ever on The Amazing Race, I'd want this guy to be my driver.

While clutching on for dear life, I couldn't help but admire the gorgeous sunset to the left of the car window. The sky turned a bright pink and the puffy clouds looked like giant cotton candy and the reflection from the water added to its hypnotic quality. As the sun became engulfed by the mountains, it turned one final stunning flash of red, before night descended upon us.

Adorable Tarsiers: When Yoda Met a Gremlin



China has its pandas and Thailand has its elephants. The poster boy animal for the Philippines surely must be the adorable Tarsiers.

Tarsiers are one of the world's smallest primates and native to Southeast Asia, primarily the Philippines, Sulawesi, Borneo and Sumatra. And in the Philippines, Bohol is the known destination to view these adorable - but unfortunately, also endangered - creaures.

We visited a Tarsier Reserve as part of our full-day nature excursion on Tuesday, Nov. 23. The Reserve had 10 Tarsiers on site, but because of light overnight rainfall, they were hard to spot and the tour guide was only able to spot four of them for us.

The reason they are so hard to spot is because these adorable nocturnal creatures are literally the size of a human fist. The few that we saw were clutched tightly around a tree, their massive eyes staring at us.

One of them eventually scrunched its face and looked like a cross between Master Yoda and a gremlin. It was absolutely adorably priceless.

Sweet views of Bohol's famous Chocolate Hills



The Chocolate Hills are an unique geological formation in Bohol that look like giant Hershey Kisses rising out of the ground. To be exact, there are approximately 1,750 hills spread over an area of more than 50 square kilometres.

They are covered in green grass that turns brown during the dry season - hence the chocolate reference.

We got to enjoy this sweet view on yet another sunny day on Tuesday, Nov. 23. While we observed the hills when they were green - not brown - I still found them quite stunning and adorable.

And I just have to say this: I surely can't be the only person in the world who thinks these hills also look like giant boobs rising out the ground.

Diving In: A Crash Course in Scuba



Water is - without a doubt - my favourite element. It has a refreshing and cleansing quality on many levels: from the literal to the spiritual. It's always a treat when I get to swim in the ocean and snorkel. I feel at home and at ease in water.

Scuba diving is something I've always wanted to learn how to do, but never got around to doing it. We didn't plan on scuba diving during our Philippines trip, but when we found out that Bohol had great dive sites, we just had to dive in, so to speak.

After our already long day of island hopping on Monday, Nov. 22, we crammed in an introductory course with a German dive master at our resort in the afternoon. After showing us a quick video demonstrating some of the theory, we went right into an open water dive.

Most divers have to practice closed water diving (swimming pool) first, so we really lucked out by getting a chance to take this crash course. We learned the few basis skills from putting on our regulator (the air mouth piece) on above water and in the water, to equalizing as we got deeper into the water, to emptying the water in our mask if any got in underwater.

We then proceeded to explore the water near our resort and went as deep as 11 meters, which was quite a feat for our very first time. It was really neat being underwater for as long as we were - about 45 minutes - and not having to up for air once. Really strange and cool feeling.

Diving really depends on good communication and teamwork - and for someone with massive ADD like me, I really had to pay attention. But the three of us worked really well as a team - and used hand signals to communicate effectively with each other. The trainer was very attentive and always checked in to make sure we were ok.

I both love and am terrified of the deep water. Staring into the foreign marine life both fascinates me and also frightens me. And as I looked down the sloping cliff where the water went from a dark blue into pitch black, I literally felt my body grow lighter than it already felt suspended on the ocean water.

We scaled around a beautiful coral formation and admired the interesting fish and vegetation, including this cool brown, shaggy carpet like plant. There were also a lot of those Nemo fish. We then slowly swam up the sloped cliff.

Some of the cool moments included swimming right above Andrew and seeing his exhalation bubbles rise up towards me; small bubbles - dozens of them - just engulfing my sight line and then fizzing away above me.

I'm definitely going to work on getting my diving license when we get back to Toronto. This won't be the last time I do this and next time, I'd definitely like to go deeper.

Island hopping in Bohol



On our first morning in Bohol, on Monday, Nov. 22, we were treated to our 10th consecutive day of sunshine. Am I dreaming? I thought to myself that when we returned to Canada after 3 weeks of sun and heat, our bodies are going to go into major shock.

We spent our first full day being taken on a boat ride to hop from one island to another, starting with the beautiful and small Damog Island - the size of a small school gymnasium.

On our way to Damog Island, we went past a school of three wild dolphins as they swam and flipped in the air. But they vanished as we drove closer to them, because the sound of the motor terrified them.

With just a small tower and Andrew, our two tour guides and me, Damog Island truly felt remote. We snorkled in the shallow waters that surrounded the Y-shaped island for a few minutes - and pulled up quite a few starfish.

We then proceeded to Calibao Island, the famed diving island in Bohol, and hung out there for lunch and enjoyed the remote feeling of it. As I stared out into the clear blue water and the blinding white powdery sand, I had to literally say a moment of thanks for the amazing few days that we've had and the many more that will surely transpire for the duration of our Philippines vacation.

Remote Getaway in Beautiful Bohol



While Cebu was nice, it was also crowded and the traffic was intense. We wanted a dramatic contrast during our three-night stay in Bohol, the third leg of our Philippines excursion, from Nov. 21 to Nov. 23.

We stayed at Isla Hayahay, located just one hour from the Taligbaran Airport. It's a small bed and breakfast like operation located right by the sea that has a very charming cottage feel. The 8-lodge resort is run by a husband and wife duo and a small group of hired help.



What I loved about the resort was its simple and down-to-Earth nature.

Sitting on the veranda overlooking the water while enjoying our meals was quite amazing, especially at night when we'd look at the mountains across the water and see less than two dozen dots of light. We truly felt like we were in the middle of nowhere.

Because we were so far off from the city, we were also cut off from the main water supply, so we showered in collected rain water (very refreshing and clean feeling).

And the wife, what an amazing cook. We were treated to amazing dishes, primarily fresh seafood caught the day of; from giant prawns (see below) to curried crab (see below) to a giant steamed red fish. Delicious. Give me a home cooked meal over restaurant food anyday.





The package the resort offered was really great and included all meals, pick up and drop off at the airport and two full-day excursions (see next posts). So if you're longing for something more remote, cottage-like, not crowded, with beautiful scenery and food, we strongly recommend this resort.

Tropical island breeze, all the nature wild and free, this is where I long to be...

Resort hopping in Cebu



Cebu - our second leg in our Philippines trip - is like Manila: modern, urban and filled with ridiculous traffic. But it's also home to some amazing beach-front resorts.

My uncle, aunt and cousin were in town on business, so we hung out with them on our first two days in Cebu. They drove us around town and also took us to visit family living in town.

We also spent the afternoon of Friday, Nov. 19, hopping from one resort to another, walking around and enjoying drinks on the grounds. From the Shangri La to the Imperial, all the resorts were quite impressive and the beaches stunning.

We ended the day with delicious Filipino fare. Yum.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Amazing Race Day At Dahilayan Adventure Park



Rolling down a hill while strapped inside a giant rubber ball. Ziplining - Superman style - down a 840m line, 4,500 feet above sea level. On Wednesday, Nov. 17, we lived out the ultimate Amazing Race fanboy experience at the Dahilayan Adventure Park, located 2 hours outside Cagayan De Oro.

Wonderfully organized once again by my cousins Karen and Isis, the trip was truly memorable and fun. I also had the pleasure of meeting my cousin Kacy for the first time. The five of us, along with my cousin Apao and his friend, had a blast.



We did the zipline first; three lines to be exact. The two shorter ones - 150m and 320m - were the traditional sitting up zipline. We then boarded a truck that drove us to a higher mountain top for the Superman-style zipline, which, at 840m, is also Asia's longest dual zipline.

We broke off into pairs - and Andrew and I rode down the mountain together. We first had to put on this apron-like harness that was then attached - via six hooks - to the zipline. Helmet ready, we were flung head first, face looking onward, into the wide open.



The views of the mountain top to our right, the trees around us and the ground far below us was quite spectacular. I held my hands wide open to my side, letting the fast wind blow between the fingers of my left hand, while my right hand gripped tightly around my camera, as it filmed every second of the fantastic ride (see clip above).



And as for the ride inside the giant rubber ball, I will let the video clip - and my high-pitched girlish wail - speak for itself.

Pinoy Rafting: Riding Inner Tube Down Rapid River



It sounds like a little boy's dream adventure. Riding an inner tube down a 17km river with 21 fast rapids in Cagayan De Oro did truly make me reconnect with that inner child.

Cagayan is renowned in Asia for its rafting and my cousins Karen and Isis were nice enough to organize a "Pinoy Style" rafting experience on Tuesday, Nov. 16, for Andrew and I - along with their friend - to experience it.



We began our day by taking a jeepney to the river starting point (above). Andrew's always wanted to ride a jeepney. As for me, it was as fun as I remembered it from 21 years ago.

Pinoy-style rafting is simple: four inner tubes are tied together. We were divided into two groups: Andrew, Isis and me in one, Karen and Anna in the other. Floating down the river was so much more fun than regular rafting, because we just lied there and didn't paddle. I'm on vacation, you know. With the currents rushing under our butts - and all over - it was like nature's bidet.

Our group flipped over two times and so did the other group. The tour guide joked that it was a competition. At one point, we were approaching a mountain he nicknamed "Kiss the Wall." Then he grinned and we saw a chipped tooth.

And when the tour guide says butts up, make sure you lift your butt up. I wasn't paying attention and ended up landing on a hard rock.



Mind you, the entire journey wasn't turbulent. There were moments of calm waters, when we just floated slowly down the river and enjoyed the beautiful mountains and scenery around us. Our tour guide told us that Cagayan used to be submerged under water 15 million years ago - and proof of this are the coral formations on the rocky walls on either ends of the river.

We ended the amazing journey by jumping off a 30-foot bridge (below is my cousin Karen's jump) and then enjoying a delicious bbq lunch.

Reuniting With Family and Enjoying Great Food and Adventure in the Province of the Golden Friendship



Cagayan De Oro - the first of our five stops in our Philippines trip - is nicknamed the Province of the Golden Friendship. It was my first time back in 21 years and I had limited memories - mainly bits and pieces - of my few visits to Cagayan as a kid.

I really enjoyed our three-day stay here, because it was a wonderful mix of fun adventure, delicious food, and most importantly, catching up with family - many of whom I had not seen in 21 years and even those who I met for the first time.

We were picked up at the airport by my uncles and were whisked off to enjoy a delicious Filipino lunch, where I was reunited with my cousin Isis, who had just visited Canada a few weeks back. I also met my cousin Apao for the first time.

We stayed at my fourth uncle's house, a place I often visited as a kid. We stayed in our late grandma's room. I enjoyed looking at old photo albums, especially of when Ma was younger.

On our first night, we celebrated Andrew's 30th birthday (above). My uncle took us out for another delicious night of Filipino fare and then we enjoyed yummy desserts baked by Isis. As an aside, oh my God, we ate so much in Cagayan. Every meal has rice. Not that I'm complaining, as the food was delicious.



Another highlight of our trip - aside from our many adventures, which I'll post about next - was visiting the cemetary where my maternal grandparents were buried. I vividly remember the last time I was there, in 1987, during my grandma's death. I remembered exactly where I stood and facing Ma, with Sa placing her hands around her shoulder, as she cried. We also got to see my great-grandfather's grave, just a few feet downhill from my grandparents.

On our last night, the entire family came over and my third aunt, who I saw again for the first time in 21 years, made a delicious dinner for us, including diniguan and pansit. My uncles also bought a lechon (roast pig). Cagayan's lechon is well known for its taste; the pig was stuffed with lemongrass. The crispy skin and tender meat were as delicious as I remembered.

Province of golden friendship? I can definitely see how Cagayan has earned that reputation. Every moment Andrew and I were here, we were treated to such amazing hospitality. As we left Cagayan this morning, I told my uncles and cousins how much fun I had and that it definitely won't be another 21 years before I visit again.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

The Food Thread - Part 1: Rediscovering local snacks



I love food and the second I arrived in the Philippines, I knew I was going to gain at least 10 pounds by the time our three week vacation was over. We've been doing a lot of eating - and every meal has rice! But I ain't complaining. I love rediscovering the local cuisine and the local fast food - including Jollibee.

I'll talk more about the local cuisine and fast food later. But for now, I'm going to indulge in some of the local snack foods I've been having fun rediscovering - some of which include:

Banana Q (above) - Street vendors in Cagayan De Oro sell this deep fried banana on a skewer on the streets. It is delicious - and uses a special small but tough banana (Asian banana, haha).



Quezo Ice Cream - I love weird and unusual flavours - be it chips or ice cream. And this Selecta Brand cheese (quezo) ice cream - with real cheddar cheese chunks - was delicious. We only have the Magnolia Brand Filipino ice cream in Canada, which doesn't have quezo.



Polvoron - This Spanish shortbread snack has always been my fave as a kid and I only get to have it when relatives visit from the Philippines. Simple but delicious. The best Polvoron is still from the Goldilocks brand. I'm bringing home an empty suitcase of this stuff.



Chicharon - Pork rinds. Always loved pork rinds as a kid (one of my uncles even had his own pork rind business). No one makes them like the Filipinos do.



White Rabbit - Pa loved this butter toffee snack. The ones we had as a kid were these melt-in-your-mouth white gooey stuff. The one now is different, but still good.



Clover Chips - Sa used to love these chips and so did I. Simple but tasty corn chips.

And of course, there's lots more to indulge in, which I look forward to enjoying and sharing in the coming two weeks.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Visiting Intramuros: Going Within the Walls of Manila's History



It was a goal of ours to absorb some history and culture during our trip to Manila this time around. On Sunday, Nov. 14, my cousins and aunt were nice enough to - at the suggestion of one of my cousin's friends - take us to Intramuros, located along the southern bank of the Pasig River.

It was built by the Spaniards in the 16th century and is Manila's oldest district. Its name, in Latin, literally means "within the walls" and refers to the wall enclosure of the city/fortress and describes its structure as it is surrounded by thick, high walls and moats.

During the Spanish colonial period, Intramuros was considered Manila itself. It served as the centre of political, military and religious power of the Spaniards during the time that the Philippines was a colony of Spain.



Located within the walled city is Fort Santiago, a defense fortress which also imprisoned political advocate and national hero Jose Rizal before his execution in 1896. Today, Rizal's spirit lives on through a shrine and exhibit that ensures his work and ideals live on for future generations to learn about.



Also located within the area is the Manila Cathedral (above) and other buildings (below) that preserve the Spanish-era architecture, which I loved.



We did enjoy our short visit a lot and leisurely walked through the beautiful gardens, trying to stay cool as the afternoon sun beated down on us and the humidity slowing down our pace. The city definitely tried to keep the memory of the old times alive, with guards dressed in old military garments and the calesa (horse on carriage) offered as a means to get around the grounds. I'm glad we made this visit.

We ended our 1-day stopover in Manila with a dinner with my uncle's family - and two other cousins - and then walked around the newly opened Eastwood Mall (below). New malls seem to sprout like coconut trees in the city, but it's nice to have seen that history lives on within the walls of Intramuros.

Hello again, Manila

The big difference between my trip back to Manila in 2008 and this time is the degree of shell shock. During my first trip back two years ago, I was really overwhelmed by how different the city I was born in was from what I remembered: a stark contrast between new and old, rich and poor, and of course, the ridiculous traffic. This time, the city didn't feel as foreign, nor did the traffic feel as horrendous. It was just very nice to be back for a visit.

We departed Toronto on Friday, Nov. 12. After a 15-hour flight to Hong Kong, followed by a four-hour wait/flight from Hong Kong to Manila. We arrived on Saturday evening, local time, and were greeted by my cousin at the airport. We then ate at a yummy Japanese restaurant with my uncle and aunt, where I enjoyed the first - of what is sure to be many - glass of green mango shake (below). So refreshingly sour. We then went home and chilled out for a bit before passing out.

We were greeted in the morning with warm beautiful sunshine. The view of the gated community from my uncle's kitchen (above) was just great. Warm weather, getting to wear shorts and basking in sunshine for the next three weeks. I knew then that it was going to be a great vacation - no matter what happens.